Hike up Mt. Kilimanjaro

So the following is what I wrote just after we hiked the mountain, and it's the longest blog post everrrrr.

Well, we did it. We actually made it to the top of the world'slargest freestanding mountain and the tallest point on the African continent. But it wasn't easy, and we are definitely paying for it now.

The day we flew into Tanzania was relaxing. We flew in with a couple from Colorado, Kimi & Mike, who were using the same tour company as us (Good Earth Tours- check them out). We had different itineraries, but after a really quick visitto the Good Earth office, we were able to combine our groups so that we could climb together. This was helpful for a few reasons:
1) They were really cool, outdoors-y type people who would be good company and good motivation on the hike because they were super fit.
2) The route Mike and I were going to take was apparentlythe most beautiful (albeit slightly more difficult) route on the mountain, so Kimi & Mike wanted to switch, whereas their schedule was better than ours (they started hiking the next day, while we had an "acclimation" day first).
3) It saved us money, because hikers are expected to tip their team of guides and porters, which can get quite pricey, so we figured that sharing one guide, assistant guide, cook, etc. would be easier.
So it was set- we had new friends to share the journey with!

Day 1 of our trek: Rain. Granted, we were walking for about 7 hours through a rainforest, but we were still not expecting it. We pull out our $30 Eddie Bauer rain suits from Target, and off we go (not realizing that only did they keep all the rain out, but they kept all our body heat in, leaving the clothes beneath as damp asthey would have gotten from the rain). We hike for the next 7 hours at a "pole pole" pace ("very slowly" in our Swahili, which would become our motto for the next 6 days), stopping for an amazing boxed lunch and some water breaks. We got a little winded, while Kimi & Mike never broke a sweat, but we still felt pretty good. We knew we weren't in amazing shape, but we both figured that since it was such a touristy adventure, it couldn't be too bad.

Day 2: Just more walking. Mostly uphill. Camp the night before had an amazing view of Kilimanjaro, and it made us feel like we were getting close. It didn't quite register that we had 4 days of hiking to go. We still stayed with Kimi & Mike, pole pole. Meanwhile, we are being passed by porters carrying about 40 lbs. each ON THEIR HEADS. It's the most amazing thing i've ever seen. All over Africa, people balance everything effortlessly on their heads while we just marvel at their grace and strength; but it takes it to a whole new level when they climb a MOUNTAIN that way. It's enough to shut you up when you start to complain about being tired.

Day 3: Monumental for all (American) parties involved. To acclimate everyone to the altitude, our trail brought us up to 4,600 meters before going down a little ways to sleep (high altitude can give you Acute Mountain Sickness, but we started taking pills for it when we both started getting headaches). That was definitely higher than we'd ever been in our lives, and higher even than Kimi & Mike had ever been in their extensive travel. It was marked by a point called "Lava Tower", which is exactly what it sounds like- a giant piece of hardened lava from one of Kilimanjaro's eruptions.

On the descent back down, our lack of fitness really started to show. Kimi & Mike went ahead with the assistant guide while we lagged behind with our head guide, James (James Bond, to be exact... no joke, that's his name), because I have a lot of difficulties going downhill. We finally made it to our camp for the night, which had some of the most gorgeous views I've ever seen in my life (there was even a cave!). The night was freezing though!

Day 4: We woke up to frost, and then another rude awakening- looking across a valley, we saw some porters on the steepest trail we'd ever seen (they actually pointed out the trail the night before, but we didn't realize it's magnitude until we saw the tiny outline of a person on it). It was actually quite fun though- we climbed rocks, using hand-over-hand techniques, and if we slipped, we'd stumble down a rock face and probably die. It's enough to keep your adrenalinepumping. After that, I was pretty pumped and walked in a brisk pace, but as Mike made clear many times, things involving stamina are not his thing, so hemoved a little more slowly (although I'm convinced it's because he was trying to be a tough guy and carry a bag that was way too heavy).

We finally made it to the camp-site for the night, and Kili seemed so close you could touch it. After a full night's sleep, we'd surely be restedenough to make it; except we didn't get a full night's sleep! On the last night of ascent, they wake you up at midnight to hike, via the moonlight and headlamps, so that you reach the peak near sunrise. Kimi & Mike, of course, made the trip in 5 1/2 hours, but it took Mike & I 8 hours to make it to the peak. Before we got there, only about 2 hours into the hike, Mike was ready to turn around, saying it wasn't worth the pain, exhaustion and cold. About 6 hours in, when the sky started to get lighter and I looked up and saw the peak still towering over, I was ready to give up too. But we didn't. When we got to the snow-capped part, I twisted an ankle and slowed down, but David (an extra helper they brought in case either Mike or I didn't make it, so that the other could continue) patted me on the back and said "You're ok, Muzungu," which made me feel like a wimp and motivated me to keep going. And it was worth it. The view was phenomenal, and there was a glacier that spanned the whole summit! (Mike still says he can take a cruise to Alaska to see glaciers).

But as the saying goes, what goes up must come down, so down we went- very very pole pole. My knees and feet were killing me, and I felt like I was moving as fast as was humanly possible, but what should have taken us 3 hours took 5. James even told us that out of the 700 times he'd been to the top, we were the slowest group he's ever had (although I'm convinced something gotlost in translation, because I doubt that's true). When we made it back to our campsite, we didn't even get to relish in our victory or even relax for long. We had an hour to eatlunch and relax before going even further downhill to the next site.

This descent was perhaps the most painful so far. I was in tears from back pain (as I've told my mom, Africa is not made for people who have had back surgery, such as myself), which was only made worse by the pressure I was putting on the trekking poles, yet I needed to use the poles because my knees felt like all the cartilage was worn off and they could barely bend anymore.

Six hours later (in case you haven't counted, that's 19 hours of hiking in one day) we made it to our final camp-site of the trek. I sat down and pulled my boots off and noticed the beginnings of blisters, conveniently located above the nail of each of my big toes. As a preemptory measure, I duct-taped both big toes, thinking it would keep them from getting irritated. With what little strength and muscle control that I had left, I curled into my sleeping bag and passed out.

Day 6 (Day 5 blurred with Day 4, that's why it didn't have its own paragraph): More of the same painful descent. And of course it rained the whole time so all of our stuff that had never gotten fully dry from the first day got wet again. I hobbled super slowly the whole way, focusing only on my steps while everyone else chatted. ThenI saw the most beautiful thing I've ever seen: our rainbow bus, and all our porters.

To finally wrap up the story, when we got back to our hotel and I took my shoes off I got nauseous at the sight- I had bulging red blisters beneath my toenails, and the nails themselves were elevated about an inch from the swelling. Mike says it looks like my feet have elephantitis, and he's exactly right. it's the most painful thing my feet have ever been through (and they've been through a lot!) and the manager of the hotel says I walk like I shat my pants.

Other memorable things from the trip:
-The food was amazing, considering the circumstances and resources. We had fried chicken every lunch and more food than we could ever finish. Dinner was always a tasty soup, followed by meat, pasta or rice, and veggies, with fresh fruit for dessert. Breakfast was eggs, fruit and porridge. Every afternoon when we made it to our camp, we had popcorn, roasted peanuts, tea, coffee and hot chocolate.

-Only 50% of the people who attempt the hike make it to the top, so even though we were sooo slowl, at least we made it. We saw quite a few people who didn't make it up, probably mostly dueto Acute Mountain Sickness. Mike and I had started taking Diamox because we didn't want that to be the only reason we didn't make it.

-We met a girl from UConn at the top of the peak, who recognized us from the hat I was wearing. What a small world!

-Mike proposed to me at the top and I said no. Ask for the story if you don't already know it :-P Just wanted to reassure our families and friends that NO, we are NOT engaged!

-I realized on this trip that I can never afford my favorite stone, Tanzanite. On our first day in Tanzania, we stopped at a very Muzungu-filled craft village that says they are the best Tanzanite dealer in the country. A woman helped meto pick out some stones that I fell in love with, then pulled out the calculator and says, "Ok, these are $600/carat, so this one will be $1900. My jaw dropped. A salesman saw in my eyes what I was thinking and pulled out a box of damaged and imperfect stones that sold for much cheaper, but bluntly told me that with my budget, I was better of investing in a really nice semi-precious stone, and promptly turned his attention to the man next to me who was waving his American Express Black card and purchasing a $156,000 stone.

We're alive!

So I'll write way more about our trip when we get back to Rwanda (on Friday), but I just wanted to let everyone know that we (barely) survived. The hike was the most intense, strenuous thing I've ever done in my life, and just wait until I post pictures of my feet after the hike (not for the weak of stomach). But we did something that we'll most likely never be able to do again, and that most of the world will never do once in their lifetime, so it was soooo worth it to me! (Mike disagrees, but I'm the one who got injured so my opinion matters more).

Miss and love you all! xoxo

Tanzania Itinerary

Many of you have asked what we are doing on our Safari in Tanzania so here is our Itinerary below for both our Trek up Kilimanjaro and our safari.

Quick note about Kilimanjaro - it is 19,340ft at its peak (which we are going to reach) 5,895 meters. It is possibly the tallest free standing mountain rise in the world (if measured from the base and below the sea level island thing I don't know but thats what it says). Needless to say 19,000 feet is the highest either of us have ever climbed and should be freaking ridiculous. For comparison purposes the Appalachian Mountains highest peak is Mount Mitchell in North Carolina at 6,684 feet. Day 1 of our trek we climb over 9,000 feet. Day 2 over 12,000. Mt. Everest stands at 29,029 feet...a mere 9,689 foot difference to the peak of Kilimanjaro. So day 1 we climb the difference between the two mountains.

The Serengeti spans 30,000km across Tanzania and Kenya. Approximately 70 larger mammal and some 500 avifauna (don't know what an avifauna is but Steph thinks its birds) species are found there. The Serengeti hosts the largest and longest overland migration in the world. This migration is the number 1 ten natural travel wonders of the world. (all the info above came from wiki). Also on the list is the Ngorongoro crater, which we are also seeing.

We will also be visiting Olduvai Gorge, known as the cradle of mankind due to the first findings of earliest hominid remains by the Leakeys.

So, we will be incommunicado for 2 weeks. Our cellphones should work in Tanzania (not sure about on the mountain trek, supposedly they have put cell service on the top of Kilimanjaro but who knows).

Any who, enjoy reading what we are gonna be doing and commence the living vicariously through us...


July 11th, 2008: Arrival Kilimanjaro International Airport (JRO)
Met upon your arrival in JRO; and transfer to Hotel in Arusha.
Accommodation: Ilboru Safari Lodge

July 12: Arusha National Park
Today, we drive to Arusha National Park with picnic lunch, the park is famous for its birdlife, we will have a game drive, and hiking in the park enabling us to get used to Tanzania climate and get over jet lag before the climb.
Estimated driving distance: 40 minutes drive one way
Activities: Game drives & Hiking
Accommodation & Meals: Ilboru Safari Lodge, B,L

July 13: Hit the mountain to Machame gate, after registration process start the hike to Machame Camp, 9,900ft, (5~6hrs) Camping, B,L,D.

July 14: Shira, 12,600ft, (5~6hrs) Camping, B,L,D.

July 15: Baranco, 12,850ft (5~7hrs) Camping, B,L,D

July 16: Barafu, 14,910ft (6~7hrs) Camping, B,L,D.

July 17: Summit, 19,340ft (6~7hrs), then descend to Mweka 10,010ft (5~7hrs), Camping, B,L,D.

July 18: Mweka gate (3~4hrs), transfer to Arusha (1hr), Ilboru Safari Lodge, B,L

July 19: Arusha / Tarangire
After breakfast, we drive to Tarangire National Park; the park is spectacular in dry season of July through October; game drives.
Estimated driving distance: 2.5hrs drive
Activities: Game drives
Accommodation & Meals: Tarangire Safari Tented Lodge, B,L,D

July 20: Tarangire / Serengeti
Today we leave Tarangire for Serengeti. Afternoon game drive in Serengeti, in search of large predators and gentle herbivores in which they feed.
Estimated driving distance: 4~5hrs drive
Activities: Game drives
Accommodation & Meals: Seronera Wildlife Lodge B,L,D

July 21: Serengeti National Park
More game drives in Serengeti; this time in northern Serengeti, where we might have a better chance seeing the migration this time of the year.
Estimated driving distance: 2.5hrs
Activities: Game drives
Accommodation & Meals: Lobo Wildlife Lodge B,L,D

July 22: Serengeti / Ngorongoro
Morning game drives in Serengeti and then later we drive to overnight in Ngorongoro with a visit of Masai Village, and optional visit of Olduvai Gorge.
Estimated driving distance: 5.5hrs drive
Activities: Game drives & Visit of Masai Village
Accommodation & Meals: Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge, B,L,D.

July 23: Ngorongoro / Arusha
Game drive in the crater exploring the short-grass plains of the crater floor. This extinct volcano embraces 100sq miles alive with lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, buffalo, and many more games. Later in the day, we drive back to Arusha.
Estimated driving distance: 3hrs drive
Activities: Game drives
Accommodation & Meals: Ilboru Safari Lodge, B,L

July 24: ??? Exploring Tanzania maybe?

July 25: flight back to Kigali

4th of July

My first 4th of July overseas may have been the most patriotic I've ever felt. I've been cynical about our government since I began learning about politics in high school when my brother gave me a crash course on US-Middle East relations at the time of the invasion of Iraq (Joe, you probably don't even remember but we were driving to Danbury in Miguel listening to Rage Against the Machine... that eventually led to my studying political science in college, which led to an interest in human rights, which brought me to Rwanda. Are you regretting teaching your little sister now?).

George W. Bush has been our only president in all those years,so it's not surprising that "celebrating our indepence" has been a laughable venture to me, considering that I see aspects of our country as anything but independent: we're dependent on foreign oil, women's rights are at the hands of predominately white male Supreme Court justices, and our economy relies on the greed and/or generosity of bureaucrats and billionaires. I've always accepted that these thoughts are a Catch-22: by virtue of being able to voice my opinion, things aren't as bad as they are elsewhere, so I should appreciate my country and all its downfalls. However, just because I can say that something is wrong, it doesn't minimize the problem.

So why the sudden patriotism? For one thing, at the American embassy's 4th of July party there were Dr. Peppers for sale (if I'm not my father's daughter...), and the selfish American in me is sick of only drinking Coke and Orange Fanta. The best part, though, was seeing so many kind-hearted Americans who are living in this tiny African country, devoting their time to restoring education, health, and hope to people with whom they may have nothing else in common except humanity. We met one family in which the daughters are trilingual at the ripe ages of 5 and 7, the mother received an MPH from Johns Hopkins, and the father is a Harvard law grad; they have the potential to do anything, but they spend their life almost nomadically, traveling to the most remote countries to network with small unheard-of non-profits in order to advance those groups' efforts and ideals. Amazing. Inspiring.

As a (shocking) side note, I was so swept up in being American that I officially tried my first-ever hamburger. And it wasn't even so bad! Maybe even good... Africa is changing me!