Muzungu Central

My mom wanted me to reassure everyone of my safety, because apparently a few people have expressed concerns. I AM SAFE. I live in a somewhat poor neighborhood, but all it does is make me a spectacle, not a target. Save for a few children asking for francs (and we've learned that it's actually illegal to givemoney to those who ask on the street), we are mostly approached by people who just want to practice their French and English on us. We get laughed at when we speak the few Kinyarwanda words but mostly in an appreciative and friendly way, because it is against the cultural norm to poke fun at people. And outside of our neighborhood, there are actually more Muzungus than we would have expected.

We just explored the mall downtown, and I was actually in complete shock as to how Western it was. We've heard about an American-style coffeehouse, but we did not expect it to be just like Starbuck's. It's even called "Bourbon" and has Bourbon Street signs all over, so that really made me feel at home! There was a huge grocery store which appeared to be going out of business but which probably would have had American foods that we were craving. It's kind of sad to be patronizing these huge businesses that are competition for the local smaller markets, but the selfish part of me is happy to have a place where I can enjoy an iced mocha latte and muffin while using wireless internet on my laptop. Especially when I know that afterwards, I will be returning to no shower and lots of bugs...

But to reiterate, the only major problems I'm really facing are some adjustment issues, internship difficulties, and some minor technological inconveniences. The only times I've been concerned for my safetyare when I react to being looked at as I reacted in South Africa. While I still don't know what the looks and stares are for (either I'm really funny-looking or really beautiful!) I've learned that it's not to attack me. And while there are many feminist issues at hand in this practice ofstaring, it is at least a step to not be afraid of assault! There are also police, security guards, and undercover cops all over the street, and violence is not tolerated anywhere. That is one outcome to having such a violent past, I suppose!

So please, don't worry about me. But please do stay in touch- I haven't heard from many people yet, and I miss you all!

xoSteph